Known as the second biggest city in Timor-Leste and just two hours from the capital of Dili, Baucau makes a fabulous overnight trip from the capital city.
Therefore YPT usually include it on our East Timor Tours. How though do you get there and is it worth the effort? Here’s the Baucau Guide.
Table of Contents
What the Timor-Leste?
Timor-Leste is one of the youngest countries in the world. It gained independence in 2002 following a bloody occupation by Indonesia and a brief stint as a Portuguese colony before that. This is not Southeast Asia as most people know it. It is quiet, raw, politically interesting and still very much in development.
Dili is the capital and while small by global standards, it has embassies, ministries, a couple of decent bars and some signs of modernity. Beyond Dili there are a few other significant towns like Baucau and Lospalos but most of the country is rural and rugged. The roads are hit and miss and things take time. That is part of the charm.
Click to read our Atauro Guide.
And Baucau?
Baucau is the second city of Timor-Leste but calling it a city might give the wrong impression. It is small, slow and split between a colonial old town and a newer section up the hill. There are a few government buildings, a local market, some fading Portuguese architecture and a swimming pool left over from the old days. You will not find shopping malls or fast food here. What you will find is a sleepy and authentic town where not much has changed in the past few decades. That is exactly why we go.
Click to read my interview with the President of Timor-Leste.
Getting to Baucau
The drive to Baucau from Dili takes around two to three hours depending on the state of the road and how often you stop. It is a coastal route for the most part and the views can be stunning. You pass small fishing villages, jungle hills, and the occasional revolutionary mural that gives you a glimpse into the not-so-distant past.
About halfway there is a spot with monkeys on the roadside who seem to know when people with bananas are coming. They are not shy. Other stops worth making include the old resistance hideouts tucked into the cliffs and the many roadside fruit stalls. Public transport does exist in the form of mikrolets and shared taxis but for comfort and ease we arrange private vehicles. It is the kind of road trip where the journey is part of the experience.
What to do in Baucau
Despite its small size Baucau has a surprising number of things to do and see. The old Portuguese colonial buildings are in varying states of decay but still photogenic. There is a cave system nearby that was used as shelter during the war and locals will tell you stories if you ask the right questions. The main public swimming pool is from the colonial era and still sees some use.
Nearby forests are home to bats and the occasional monkey and if you are lucky you might get invited to a traditional feast or ceremony. The market is worth visiting for local vegetables and snacks and is a good place to people watch. At night things are quiet but that is part of the appeal. You are not here for nightlife. You are here to see another side of Southeast Asia before it disappears.
Beaches of Baucau
One of the most amazing things to do in Baucau though is of course to visit its beaches. Quite frankly they can only be described as stunning, something that is only amplified by the fact that no one else in the world seems to know about them. Here you will see not just miles of coastline, but also fishing boats on the sand with everything purposed as a tropical fishing beach that moves very much to its own pace.
And while I have always thought it could only last so long it has been over ten years that things have not changed, with the only real accommodation being the homestay by the beach. By the looks of things some small hotels are being built, but this is not for any immediate influx of tourism, regardless of what the government says. This is the anti Bali and a huge reason why we stay here on our tours.
Where to stay in Baucau
Accommodation is limited but that is part of the charm. There is a guesthouse by the beach that YPT regularly use and a couple of options in the old town that offer basic rooms with fans and running water. The new town has a couple of government-run lodges but these are inconsistent. Hotels here cannot be booked online. They can only be arranged through contacts or on the ground. This is not Booking dot com country. This is talk to the right person and see what is available. And that is why we come.
Click to read about our Timor-Leste Tours.
About Post Author
