Port Sudan’s Mapina Hotel is one of those relics of the past that gets under your skin. The type of place that was once a shining beacon of luxury and western influence, now a faded ghost of what it used to be. This isn’t just a hotel – it’s a former Hilton that has a story to tell. So, naturally, I had to take a detour and see it for myself.
Back in the day, the Hilton Port Sudan was a beacon of luxury in a city that had big ambitions. Built in 1972, it was a joint venture between Sudan and Kuwait, making it a high-profile establishment in the region. For a while, it stood proud as a hotel that catered to diplomats, businessmen, and the occasional curious traveller passing through. But, as with most things in Sudan, change was inevitable.
What Happened to the Hilton?
Fast forward to 2007 and the US sanctions hit hard. With the Hilton brand no longer viable, it rebranded as the Coral Hotel under UAE-based management. But the glory days were long behind it. The crowd that once frequented it changed, from international hotel guests to the more utilitarian types – UN workers, NGO employees, and government officials. By the 2010s, Sudan sold off its remaining stake, and between 2016 and 2020, the hotel got a facelift and a new name: Mapina Hotel. The place may have changed names, but the legacy of its Hilton past is still evident in the bones of the building.
The State of Mapina Today
Today, the Mapina Hotel sits in a strange twilight. It’s not luxury by any stretch, but it’s still got a certain faded grandeur. The grounds are well-kept – likely by underpaid workers – but cracks are showing. The windows need some attention, and there’s a palpable feeling of a once-stunning establishment losing its charm.
That being said, the hotel still holds some value. It’s next to the presidential compound and the main waterway of Port Sudan, so it’s got a decent location. And for what it’s worth, the hotel offers a decent enough café where you can enjoy Sudanese drinks and some surprisingly good food. Don’t expect anything mind-blowing, but you can always count on the coffee, and their hibiscus drinks are an easy win.
What’s Around the Hotel?
So, what’s in the area? Well, if you like the chaos of street vendors, you’ll love the area around Mapina. It’s a blend of faded colonial buildings, busy markets, and a handful of international NGOs. If you’re looking to do something real Sudanese, you’re just a stone’s throw from the souvenir market, where you can haggle for everything from Sudanese flags to incense that smells like something you probably shouldn’t be smelling.
Right next to the hotel, there’s a bustling street food scene with stalls serving up some of Sudan’s finest bites, like grilled meats and flatbreads. Trust me, you won’t go hungry.
Staying at Mapina?
Now, the big question: Should you stay here? Well, if you’re lucky enough to find a room, it’s certainly not going to be luxury by any stretch of the imagination, but it’s got character. It’s a hotel that tells a story. In a country like Sudan, where uncertainty is a constant, staying in a place that’s been through its fair share of history feels like you’re part of something bigger.
That said, don’t expect a smooth ride. Hotels in Port Sudan are hard to come by. On my trip, I had to rent an apartment because every hotel was full. And there was zero room at the Inn for me at the Mapina!
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How to Get There?
From Port Sudan airport, it’s about a 20-minute drive, but good luck finding a taxi. The city’s infrastructure is a bit hit-and-miss, and with the current situation in Sudan, you’ll need a solid fixer or someone who knows the ropes. But trust me, it’s worth the adventure. The old Hilton is still an icon, and the best way to get there is to ask locals about it. People still know it by its old name.
Final Thoughts on Mapina Hotel
In a city that’s changed so much, the Mapina Hotel remains a curious relic of better days gone by. It’s one of those places that gives you a sense of what could have been. A hotel that once had aspirations of grandeur, but now serves as a reminder of the challenges Sudan has faced.
Would I stay here again? Absolutely. But with no illusions. If you’re in Port Sudan and want a piece of history, the Mapina Hotel might just be one of the few spots that can show you what the place used to be. And in a country like Sudan, that kind of history is worth experiencing.
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