Young Pioneer Tours

The Vanimo Guide

Despite being such a strategically important border city between Indonesia and Papua New Guinea, fairly few people visit the Papuan city of Vanimo. And it turns out that this is a real shame as not only is it a bit of a beach paradise, but it is also one of the safest places within Papua New Guinea.

And YPT discovered this by visiting as part of a research sojourn that carried us through Maluku, West Papua and into Papua New Guinea largely overland.

So, what is there to do in Vanimo, how do you get there and is it worth visiting? Here is the Vanimo Guide.

The what and where of Vanimo Guide

Vanimo is the capital of Sandaun Province, also known as West Sepik. It sits right on the border with Indonesia, making it a key trading post and gateway between the two countries. The town itself has a population of around 20,000 people and has long been used as a jumping-off point for traders, missionaries and government officials crossing between Papua New Guinea and Jayapura on the Indonesian side.

The town is small, quiet and by Papua New Guinea standards very safe. Its streets are lined with simple buildings, government offices, a market, schools and three main hotels that form the backbone of its social scene. Vanimo is represented in the Papua New Guinea parliament by Hon. Belden Namah, a man well known for his fiery style of politics. Namah is also the current Minister for Tourism, Arts and Culture, which makes him one of the most visible political figures in the country. The irony is not lost that one of the safest and most accessible cities in PNG happens to be his home turf.

What is there to do in Vanimo Guide

There is not actually a whole heap to do in Vanimo, but that is partly the beauty of the place. Essentially Vanimo, much like much of the island of Papua, is home to some amazing beaches. For safety and various other reasons relatively few outsiders visit, which gives them a real Gilligan’s Island feel.

The beaches also offer some surprisingly decent surf action, which has attracted a couple of small resorts as well as a smattering of Australian surfers in the know. Added to this is the fact that Vanimo is extremely safe, which in the context of Papua New Guinea makes it a very big deal indeed.

Five things to do in Vanimo

Visit the Arches

A short trip from town takes you to a natural rock formation known as the arches. These are sea-carved rock structures sitting out in the water and make for a dramatic backdrop for photos.

Check out the Waterfall

Just outside of Vanimo town you will find a waterfall that can be reached with a short hike. It is not huge but it is a great place to cool down and a reminder of how much natural beauty surrounds the area.

Surf the Beaches

Vanimo has a reputation among surfers as one of the best hidden spots in Papua New Guinea. The waves are consistent, the beaches are clean and you are unlikely to be sharing them with crowds. Boards can be rented locally.

Walk the Town

One of the strangest but most rewarding things to do in Vanimo is simply to walk around. Unlike Port Moresby, Lae or Mount Hagen, this is a place where you can stroll down the street without fear. The local market by the seafront is worth a look.

Swim and BBQ on the Beach

Arrange with locals or through the hotels to have a BBQ on the beach. Fresh fish cooked over the fire with the Pacific Ocean at your feet is about as relaxed as it gets.

Eating, Drinking and Sleeping in Vanimo Guide

While very safe and indeed very nice, Vanimo is not exactly Vegas and not even Jayapura. The nightlife is minimal and restricted to the three hotels. The bars here stop serving alcohol at 20.30, which feels absurd but is actually enforced by local licensing laws.

Fear not though, as when we were there it became clear that within the Vanimo Beach Hotel there exists a secret karaoke speakeasy. This late-night hideout was packed with locals, music and plenty of drinks once the official closing time had passed.

Hotels, Restaurants and Bars of Vanimo

While far from an eclectic mix there are a few different very good options for when you stay in Vanimo.

Vanimo Beach Hotel

The main accommodation option in town, located right on the waterfront with views of the ocean. Rooms are clean, staff are friendly, and prices start from about 150 kina a night. The hotel has a restaurant serving standard PNG hotel fare, heavy on fish, chicken, and rice. It is also where you will find the secret karaoke speakeasy.

Sandaun Hotel

Located right next to the Vanimo Beach Hotel, Sandaun Hotel is smaller but convenient. It offers simple rooms and a small bar, making it a practical alternative if the Beach Hotel is full. Prices start around 350 kina a night. Its restaurant also serves basic meals and is a hub for local visitors.

Vanimo Surf Lodge

Further out of town, the Surf Lodge is ideal for those wanting to combine a stay in Vanimo with some beach and surf action. It offers traditional beachfront huts with stylish finishes, giving a more relaxed, rustic experience. It is a bit quieter than the town hotels, making it perfect for a more isolated getaway while still within reach of Vanimo town.

Getting in and out of Vanimo Guide

Vanimo can be reached overland from Jayapura in Indonesia. The border crossing is open during the day, with immigration formalities on both sides usually taking a few hours. From Jayapura it is around a two-hour drive to the border and then a short hop into Vanimo town.

By air Vanimo is connected to Wewak and Port Moresby. Air Niugini flies several times a week from both destinations. Tickets to Port Moresby average around 900 kina one way, which is about 250 US dollars, while flights to Wewak are slightly cheaper at 600 kina, around 170 US dollars. The airport is small but functional and only a few minutes from the centre of town.

Is Vanimo Safe?

In our very humble opinion Vanimo is perhaps slightly above even Bougainville as the safest place in the whole of Papua New Guinea. What does this mean? Well, from a practical point of view it means that not only do hotels not have huge walls outside of them, but you can walk around by yourself.

This might not sound like a big deal, but it really is. In Papua New Guinea not only is Port Moresby one of the most dangerous places on earth, but even tourist-friendly destinations such as Mount Hagen or Goroka come with their own set of dangers.

We made the most of this by exploring the city alone and by foot, and by swimming on the beaches. We still would not suggest going solo out at night, but overall the environment here is like nothing else in Papua New Guinea.

Conclusion

While we generally advise against solo travel in PNG, Vanimo would probably be the exception to this. With relatively little to do there are few contexts where you would spend too much time here, but with that being said the city is well worth a look and is somewhere we will be incorporating into future tours.

And you can join us in Vanimo by taking part in one of our West Papua Tours that lead into travel to Papua New Guinea.

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