Although mostly famous for its tea, this engaging city up in the Indian mountains is also a huge local, as well as international tourist draw. And seeing as we just went here, we decided to put together the Ultimate Darjeeling Guide!
Why? Quite simply because we fell in love with this gorgeous town that is now very much part of our tour plans! Here’s everything you need to know about Darjeeling and why YPT think you should go.
The Darjeeling Story
Darjeeling started off as a sleepy little village that wasn’t even really part of India or Nepal. It sat in the middle of a power tug-of-war between the Sikkimese, the Nepalese, and the British, who eventually decided they’d quite like a cool place to escape the Calcutta heat. So the Raj moved in, built some schools, a few clubs, and most importantly, planted tea.
And that tea changed everything. Darjeeling became the posh cup of British India, with its own unique flavour that somehow made everyone think they were better than they really were. Post-independence the town stuck with tea, tourism, and trying to deal with the mess of colonialism, while keeping its mountain charm intact.
And Gorkhaland?
So while officially part of West Bengal, ask pretty much anyone in Darjeeling and they’ll tell you this ain’t Bengal. Most folks here are ethnic Gorkhas (Nepali-speaking Indians) who have been banging the drum for their own state, Gorkhaland, for decades.
There’s been protests, strikes, some clashes and a lot of political posturing, but the central government hasn’t budged. The locals don’t want independence, just recognition and better treatment. You’ll see signs for Gorkhaland all over the place, and it’s not just some niche cause, this is a big deal for people here. Don’t act surprised if your driver or guesthouse owner brings it up within five minutes of small talk.
How to get to Darjeeling?
Getting to Darjeeling is kind of a pain, but that’s half the fun.
By Air: Nearest airport is Bagdogra, which you can get to from most Indian cities. From there, you’re still looking at 3-4 hours of winding roads unless you’ve hired a chopper. Spoiler: you haven’t.
By Train: Take the train to New Jalpaiguri (NJP), usually from Kolkata or elsewhere in India. It’s a proper Indian railway station, so expect madness, samosas, possibly goats and definitely cows. Not to be confused with Siliguri.
By Road: From NJP or Bagdogra you’ll be in Siliguri, and that’s where the adventure starts. You can grab a shared jeep, a private taxi if you’re feeling flush, or brave the bus if you want to be thrown around like laundry. It takes ages, the roads are crap, but the views are epic.
By Toy Train: Or you can do it old-school with the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, the Toy Train. It takes about 7 hours to do 80km, moves at walking speed, and has a habit of derailing—but you do it for the experience, not the efficiency.
What to do in Darjeeling Guide
While tea based activities are of course the main thing to do in Darjeeling, there is much more to the town than just this. Firstly there is the cool air and mountain climate, which are huge draws fro people from hotter climates, but also the nature and scenery.
This includes the aware winning Darjeeling Zoo (number 6 on my list) that includes the famous red pandas and Bengali tigers among others, as well as the aforementioned scenery. Darjeeling is truly beautiful with one of the true highlights simply being soaking it all in.
5 Best Things to Do in Darjeeling
There are much more than 5 things to do in Darjeeling, but hey we didn’t want to go on forever. Therefore, here is the YPT list of the 5 best things to do when you visit Darjeeling.
5. Hit the Tea Plantations
This one’s a no-brainer. You’re in the tea capital of India—get out and walk around the tea gardens. Many are open to visitors, some even let you stay overnight. Even if you’re not a tea-head, it’s kind of cool to see where the magic happens.
4. Visit the Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre
More than just a good cause, this is a proper slice of modern Himalayan history. You’ll see traditional crafts, get a decent idea of the Tibetan exile story, and maybe pick up a souvenir that isn’t total tat.
3. Wander Chowrasta and Observatory Hill
This is the heart of the town, with shops, views, and that kind of old colonial vibe you sort of expect from Darjeeling. Observatory Hill also has temples and monkeys, so you get your culture and chaos in one go.
2. Ride the Darjeeling Toy Train
Yes it’s slow, yes it’s bumpy, but it’s also UNESCO-listed and iconic. Do the joyride from Darjeeling to Ghum and back. It’s short, sweet, and you get to feel like a 19th century adventurer, but with mildly better clothes.
1. Watch the Sunrise at Tiger Hill
Drag yourself out of bed at 4am and make the trip to Tiger Hill. If you’re lucky and the skies are clear, you’ll see Kanchenjunga light up in pink and gold, and even a peek of Everest in the distance. Worth it. Just pack something warm and ignore the crowd of camera-wielding maniacs.
Darjeeling Guide to Eating
One of the best things you can do in Darjeeling is eat. The town blends Himalayan, Nepali, West Bengali and Indian grub into something that always hits. From momos to thalis, and even a few cafes doing half-decent pizza, you’ll eat well here.
It’s better than Sikkim in terms of variety, and there’s enough to keep you fed whether you’re on a backpacker budget or trying to be fancy.
Top 5 Darjeeling Restaurants
The Darjeeling restaurant scene is so eclectic that it even includes KFC and Pizza Hut. Baby you are not in Gangtok anymore. Sadly, street food is a bit lacking, but hey—you cannot have everything.
5. Kunga Restaurant
Hole-in-the-wall joint run by Tibetan folks. Good noodles, great momos, tiny tables, and usually packed. Don’t miss the thukpa if the weather’s rough.
4. Glenary’s
You can’t talk Darjeeling without Glenary’s. Colonial vibe, pastries downstairs, proper meals upstairs. Bit overpriced but the view off the terrace makes up for it.
3. Penang Restaurant
Simple but great Nepali food—think daal bhat, spicy pickles, and the kind of chill local spot that feels like home after a day of hills.
2. The Park
For your Indian-Chinese fusion fix. Think chilli chicken, fried rice, and sizzlers. Also the kind of place locals actually eat at.
1. Sonam’s Kitchen
This one is for the breakfast crowd. Pancakes, eggs, porridge, and proper coffee. Run by a chilled-out couple who’ve been doing it forever. Every traveller seems to end up here.
Darjeeling Guide to Street Food
Street food in Darjeeling isn’t really a thing. Sure, you’ll see the odd momo stall or someone selling peanuts or roasted corn, but it’s nothing like Delhi or even Kathmandu. A lot of the food scene happens indoors, probably because of the weather and the hills. If you’re dying for a street snack, go for steamed momos or maybe an egg roll—but don’t come expecting night markets or food tours.
Top 5 Bars in Darjeeling
While not exactly New Delhi when it comes to nightlife, there is still more going on in Darjeeling than say, Gangtok. Although again, this is not saying too much.
Darjeeling is very much a drinking town though, with restaurants and even dive bars tending to have a decent array of not just whisky, but even wines. And there are even a couple of bars worth a look.
5. Joey’s Pub
Classic expat vibe. Feels like you’ve walked into a British guy’s man cave from 1983. Cheap beers, rock music, and no frills.
4. Buzz
Inside the Sinclairs Hotel, so a bit on the polished side. Good cocktails if that’s your thing, and a decent crowd on weekends.
3. Gatty’s Café
More of a café-bar hybrid, but they’ve got live music, beer on tap, and it’s a great place to meet other travellers. Wi-Fi too, if you’re still trying to post your Toy Train video.
2. Glenary’s Pub
Yes, same Glenary’s. The basement turns into a pub at night and while it’s no rave, it’s got a decent drinks list, some tunes, and a cosy vibe.
1. The Park Bar
Attached to the Park Restaurant, this is where locals drink, and we like that. No nonsense, decent whisky, and the food upstairs means you can drink and eat without moving far.
Conclusion on Darjeeling Guide
So that’s Darjeeling. A little rough around the edges, steep as hell, but genuinely charming without trying too hard. It’s not perfect, and that’s part of the appeal.
Whether you come for the tea, the views, or just to get out of the madness of Kolkata for a few days, Darjeeling more than delivers. Just don’t expect a party, and do expect stairs. Lots of them.
Click to check our Sikkim and Darjeeling Tours.
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