If you go in search of trekking and tribes in West Papua then you pretty much all roads, or rather flights, lead to Wamena. Located deep in the highlands of Papua not only does the area offer sublime beauty, but also the chance to interact with the truly fascinating and indeed tough Dani tribe.
How easy though is it to get here, can you do it independently and what are the idiosyncrasies of the place? All of this and indeed much more in the YPT ultimate guide to traveling in Wamena.
What the Wamena?
Wamena is the main town of the Baliem Valley and the largest settlement in the central highlands of Papua. Sitting at over 1,600 meters above sea level, it is surrounded by lush mountains, winding rivers, and the homes of several indigenous tribes, most famously the Dani. The town itself has a small, busy market where locals trade fresh produce and traditional crafts, alongside a handful of shops and eateries mostly run by Javanese migrants.
While the scenery is breathtaking, getting to Wamena isn’t straightforward. There are no roads linking it to other major towns, so the only practical way in is by plane from Jayapura or Timika. Flights can be unpredictable due to weather or security concerns, but once you arrive, you’re stepping into one of Indonesia’s most culturally rich and remote regions.
Top 5 Activities in Wamena
If you are not interested in trekking or tribes then it is probably best to quite frankly just skip coming to Wamena, if though these things are your bag then Wamena and West Papua in general will feel a bit like heaven.
We have therefore put together our top 5 things to do in Wamena, in no fixed particular order!
- Trek to Pyramid Village – A scenic hike that offers incredible views over the valley and a glimpse into Dani village life.
- Spend a day with the Dani tribe – Experience traditional customs, their unique way of life, and perhaps witness a Mumu feast.
- Climb Mount Wugulwari – A challenging trek rewarding with panoramic views over Wamena and the surrounding mountains.
- Visit Pasema Waterfall – A refreshing break from trekking with stunning cascades in the jungle nearby.
- Explore the Baliem Valley Trek – For the hardcore, multi-day treks take you deeper into the valley to meet more tribes and witness untouched nature.
Eating in Wamena
While Wamena is a heaven for trekking and tribes it is not exactly a foodie location! Despite being dominated by the Dani, businesses are run by the Javanese overlords. This means that most of the fare is Indonesian, a cuisine I have previously and rightfully so lambasted. So, this pretty much means getting used to bad fried rice and worse fried noodles.
Sadly if you are desiring Papuan fare this is few and far between, save some chicken and taro at the market, or eating Mumu with the Dani.
Is there Street Food in Wamena? There is actually some, mostly down by the big cross in the centre of town and by the Baliem Pilamo Hotel. It is not bad, but again not exactly something worth writing home about.
5 Best Restaurants in Wamena
While most of the food in Wamena is lackluster at best, there are a few places that manage to serve up a semi-decent Indonesian meal.
Baliem Pilamo Hotel Restaurant – Jalan Trikora
This restaurant offers the largest menu in Wamena, though availability can be hit or miss. One dish that really stands out is their banana fritters topped with cheese and surprisingly served with hot sauce — a combination that works far better than you’d expect.
Schop Mychi Resto – Jalan Yos Sudarso No 20
A spotless and comfortable spot, mostly serving Indonesian dishes. Their milkshakes are excellent, and importantly, they accept credit cards — which is quite rare in Wamena.
Rumor Makan Fakhira – Jalan Trikora No 45
Wamena’s most talked-about eatery for some reason, offering solid Indonesian food and some of the best milkshakes in town.
Cafe Pilamo – Jalan Yos Sudarso
I didn’t visit this time but remember it well for its desserts, particularly the Indonesian take on Filipino Halo-Halo called Es Teler. Their strawberry milkshake with shredded cheese is also worth trying.
MuMu with the Dani – Village
Not a restaurant, but hands down the best meal you can have in the area. If you’re lucky, you’ll feast on pig; otherwise, chicken is the norm. It comes with taro, sweet potato, and a spicy mountain ginger kick. Note this is rarely something you can organize on your own.
Nightlife of Wamena
Wanna know about the nightlife of Wamena? Well the long story short of this is that it does not bloody exist. This is because Wamena is a dry city! Why is it dry you ask? For all intents the answer is two fold, firstly the Dani and alcohol do not really mix well. Secondly this is part of Indonesia, so much like in West Timor Islamic values have been somewhat projected here, whether people like it or not.
This leaves getting street food on Jalan Trikor street and near the Baliem Pilamo Hotel as the only nocturnal activities with even the last stalls closing by midnight. Although! With that being said I did hear a dirty little rimmer that one could get hold of a bottle of moonshine/paiawara, but at $40 I decided against it. Essentially take this for what it is, a great chance to get a few early nights.
Where to sleep in Wamena?
The hotel to stay in is the Baliem Pilamo which is actually a pretty decent hotel central and at least where there is some food, drink, and small shop action. Breakfast here is decent and it can rightly call itself the best hotel in Wamena for regular people although there really is not much competition.
The hotel also has a shop in the basement, offers laundry and massage as well as hotel rooms that let you watch Indonesian military planes coming in and out as they deal with the issues of West Papua. Truly what a time to be alive.
And the politics?
When it comes to the West Papuan insurgency and fight for freedom Wamena is pretty much the epicenter. This means that there is regularly trouble here and that the locals are more nationalistic than in other parts of West Papua. This is in part evidenced by the fact the locals regularly wear the Morning Star flag, despite that fact that it is illegal.
What this means in practice is that you should be careful what you talk about in public with Papuans and should personally avoid wearing the Morning Star flag, even if you do support the cause.
Another key factor to keep in mind here is that trouble in the area can heavily affect travel. Prior to our last trip it was almost canceled due to a soldier being shot by insurgents, although this never made it to the news.
Conclusion on Wamena
West Papua in general is just a stunningly beautiful place of many contrasts, Wamena though is potentially king of this crop, with the Baliem Valley alone justifying the journey. Therefore while it might not exactly be Bali, we kinda like it here.
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