Lets make no bones about this, Siliguri is not a nice city at all. Yet while it is not all that pleasant it is pretty much a necessary evil if you want to see the wonders of Sikkim and Darjeeling.
The good news here though is that YPT have gone through the good and the bad of this city to be able to give you the guide on how to survive and thrive in Siliguri.
A shit city, we would not be as rude as to say that!
Table of Contents
What the Siliguri?
Siliguri sits in West Bengal and acts as the so called Gateway to the North East of India. The population of the wider metropolitan area is pushing close to a million, although it feels like every single one of them is trying to overtake you in traffic at the same time. It is not old by Indian standards, really growing during the British Raj as a trading and transport hub linking Bengal with the Himalayan foothills.
Geographically it sits in the narrow Siliguri Corridor, also known as the Chicken’s Neck, that thin strip of land connecting mainland India to its north eastern states. Strategically important, aesthetically questionable. Tea, timber and transport built the place, while migration from Bihar, Nepal and Bangladesh gave it its current chaotic flavour. It is hot, dusty, crowded and functional. No one comes here for romance. They come because they have to.
What is there to do in Siliguri?
Let us not sugarcoat this. There is very little to do in Siliguri itself. You can visit a shopping mall, wander around Hong Kong Market, or sit in a park pretending you are somewhere else. There is a vaguely pleasant riverfront area and a couple of temples if that is your thing.
But realistically Siliguri is a transit city. You sleep, you eat, you sort your permits and you leave. If you are looking for culture, head to Darjeeling. If you want mountains, go to Sikkim. If you want chaos, just cross the road in Siliguri.
Where to stay in Siliguri?
As in much of India the hotels are either top notch and more expensive than God, or cheap and nasty. I actually stayed in one of the worst hotels I have ever stayed in whilst in Siliguri.
We can though recommend the following five joints as being at least passable.
- Courtyard by Marriott Siliguri
Mallaguri, Hill Cart Road, Pradhan Nagar, Siliguri 734003
If you want international standards, air conditioning that works and a breakfast that will not kill you, this is your spot. Not cheap, but safe and efficient. - The Cindrella Hotel
3rd Mile, Sevoke Road, Siliguri 734008
Slightly dated but spacious and with a pool. Popular with business travellers and wedding parties. A decent mid range option. - Sinclairs Siliguri
Sevoke Road, Bhanu Nagar, Siliguri 734001
Reliable, central and used by tour groups. Rooms are solid enough and the staff know what they are doing. - Hotel Saluja
Hill Cart Road, Near Siliguri Junction, Siliguri 734001
Budget but acceptable. Close to the station which is both a blessing and a curse. - Mayor Hotel
Hill Cart Road, Pradhan Nagar, Siliguri 734003
Cheap, cheerful and does the job for one night. Do not expect luxury, expect a bed and running water.
Oh and avoid Hotel Suktara.
Eating, drinking and street food Siliguri
Most of the life within the city seems to occur around Siliguri Junction and the train station. This of course includes the slums and cows blocking the road, but also restaurants and bars. Cuisine tends to be of the Bengali variety with plenty of fish curries, rice and oily delights.
Bars are a whole other bag of vegetables though with most seeming to be sleepy venues where guys come to watch singers or drink whisky in silence. There is not really a pub scene in Siliguri. Do not expect craft beer and banter.
Street food in Siliguri is pretty good though, with lots to choose from around the train station, covering all different kinds of the Indian street food genre. Momos, chaat, rolls and sweets are everywhere. I survived at least, but not everyone escaped Delhi belly.
Getting in and out of Siliguri
Pretty much the best thing you can do in Siliguri is get out of the place. This can be done by air of course, with Bagdogra Airport surprisingly well serviced, but from a travel point of view it is all about the land borders and the hills.
From Siliguri it is just a few hours drive to Sikkim, and a few more to the capital of Gangtok. From there you can even get overland to Bhutan with the right paperwork. It is also linked by toy train, as well as road, to the beauty of Darjeeling.
The city is served by two main railway stations. These are New Jalpaiguri Railway Station, usually referred to as NJP, and Siliguri Junction. Most long distance trains use NJP, while Siliguri Junction handles more regional services. It is important not to go to the wrong one as they are not the same place and Indian train staff will not care that you messed up.
The city is perfectly linked to a few epic train journeys, such as to New Delhi, Kolkata and even Mumbai. One could also link all the way to the south of India if one had the time and patience. Alas road trips to China are not on the menu.
Flights from Bagdogra Airport
| Destination | Airline Options | Approx Time |
| New Delhi | IndiGo, Air India | 2 hours |
| Kolkata | IndiGo, SpiceJet | 1 hour |
| Guwahati | IndiGo | 1 hour |
| Mumbai | IndiGo | 3 hours |
Train options from New Jalpaiguri
| Destination | Example Train | Approx Time |
| New Delhi | Mahananda Express | 24 to 26 hours |
| Kolkata | Darjeeling Mail | 10 to 12 hours |
| Mumbai | Guwahati Mumbai Express | 40 plus hours |
| Guwahati | Kamrup Express | 6 to 8 hours |
In short Siliguri is not the destination. It is the stepping stone. Treat it as such, keep your expectations low and your onward ticket ready, and you will do just fine.
Click to check our Sikkim Tours.
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