While unlikely to be taking the world by storm any time soon, the food in Banda Aceh fits nice and snuggly within the broader Indonesian cuisine genre, while also offering some choice local specialities.
This means that while Banda Aceh cuisine might not exactly blow your mind, you will certainly not go hungry when you travel to the area.
What the Banda Aceh?
Banda Aceh is the capital of Aceh, a place that spent decades trying to leave Indonesia and very nearly managed it. For thirty years the Free Aceh Movement waged an armed separatist struggle against the Indonesian state, complete with jungle warfare, curfews, arrests, torture and the occasional military occupation. It wasn’t pretty. It also wasn’t covered much because journalists weren’t exactly welcome.
What finally ended the war wasn’t peace talks or a shared sense of unity. It was a natural disaster. In 2004 the Indian Ocean tsunami hit Aceh with the force of a biblical curse. Banda Aceh was the closest major city to the epicentre and it got annihilated. Entire neighbourhoods were erased. Over 160000 people in Aceh died, boats landed on houses and whole towns were simply wiped out. For context 5% of the province perished, as well as 25% percent of the capital. Make no mistake every person that you meet in Aceh was affected on some way shape or form.
After that, the rebels and Jakarta figured they had bigger things to deal with and signed a deal. The war ended and in exchange Aceh got autonomy and the right to implement its own version of Islamic law.
This is why Banda Aceh is now the only place in Indonesia with full Sharia law. That means no alcohol, no pork, no short shorts, no public affection and yes, public canings. Religious police are a thing and you will notice them. If you’re thinking of turning up here to party you’re about 20 years too late and also in the wrong country.
But if you’re here for some politics, history, tsunami wreckage decent curries and dare we say a bit of dark tourism, then it is worths pending a week here.
Banda Aceh Cuisine
Let’s be honest. Indonesian food is not the best in South East Asia. It’s not the worst either but it lives firmly in the lower tier. Some rice, some fried things, too much sugar in the wrong places, and a heavy dependence on mystery meat and tiny plastic packets of sambal. Sambal is your ultimate friend in Indonesia.
Aceh, though, does things a bit differently. The food here is spicier, heavier and leans hard into Indian and Arab influences. Think curries that actually taste of something, breads that aren’t white and lifeless, and rice that’s been cooked in coconut milk instead of boiled into oblivion. You’ll still get your fried chicken and your fried noodles, but there’s more going on here than in much of Indonesia.
Everything is halal, obviously which means no pork and no alcohol. But you will find goat cooked until it falls apart, fish stewed in tamarind and vegetables that have been fermented, fried, or turned into paste. Do not though come expecting a culinary tour, or you will be disappointed.
5 must try foods in Banda Aceh
OK, so here are our 5 must try foods in Banda Aceh, as always in the order that we rank them.
5. Kuah Pliek U
This is a vegetable curry stew made with banana flowers, jackfruit, mystery leaves and fermented coconut paste. It looks like sludge and barely edible, but it’s what the locals eat and after a few spoons you’ll understand why. It’s rich, weird, and you’ll probably smell like it for the rest of the day, but kinda good.
4. Nasi Gurih
This is rice cooked in coconut milk and served with anchovies, sambal, egg and a few other fried bits depending on what time you show up. It’s similar to nasi lemak if you’ve ever been to Malaysia, except spicier and less polished. Usually eaten for breakfast but nobody’s checking.
3. Ayam Tangkap
Fried chicken buried under a pile of deep fried herbs and leaves. The name literally means caught chicken. Don’t overthink it, you eat the chicken and the leaves and it all crunches together with an absurd amount of flavour. Best eaten with your hands and a cold glass of sweet tea, because theres no beer.
2. Mie Aceh
Spicy yellow noodles served either stir fried or in a thick curry soup with beef, goat or seafood. Every street has a stall serving this. The good ones cook it fast, leave it oily, and don’t ask how spicy you want it because they already decided. This is your go to dinner.
1. Roti Cane
Flaky flatbread that owes more to Chennai than Jakarta. Served with dhal if you want something savoury, or drenched in condensed milk and sugar if you need a rush. It’s the closest thing Aceh has to dessert and breakfast and hangover cure all in one. And no, there’s no beer to go with it.
Can you drink in Banda Aceh
Officially no you cannot drink at all in Banda Aceh as per its 2015 law on the matter. This dictates a firm interpretation of Sharia Law whereby no one, regardless of religion or if they are a local or tourist is allowed to drink. Punishment can be up to 100 lashes depending on severity. For context in 2016 a woman was given 30 lashes for selling booze.
In reality though and particularly at the resorts there is a degree of leniency and you might be able to get a sneaky brew. We though do not advise this. Instead wait to get your freak on in Jakarta.
Final thoughts on food in Banda Aceh
So no booze no pork and no chance of a wild Friday night? Well pretty much, which is more the shame when you factor in the stunning beaches. In fact the beauty here is equal to that of Bali, or Palawan, but alas without the rum.
The culture and history though, alongside the friendly people and indeed the food in Banda Aceh do though combine to make this a fabulous destination.
Check out our Indonesian Tours for travel to Banda Aceh and beyond.
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