One of our favorite parts of our Cambodian Dark Tourism tour is passing through the extremely underrated city of Battambang. For the most part this is for the cool and kitsch tourist attractions.
What sets the city apart though is how the city comes alive at night, mostly due to the eclectic Battambang street food scene, which also sees hawkers come out, as well as the locals making the riverside a de facto party place. Yep, we like Battambang.
Table of Contents
The Basics on Battambang
Battambang is Cambodia’s second largest city and the main hub of the northwest, sitting in a region that is heavily agricultural and especially known for rice production. Despite its size and importance, it still feels relaxed compared to Phnom Penh or Siem Reap.
The city has a strong colonial backbone, with French era architecture, wide streets and a slow, almost sleepy rhythm during the day. Most tourists pass through for the Bamboo Railway, the Bat Caves, and the Killing Caves, but many skip it entirely, which is a mistake because it gives you a more authentic slice of Cambodian life without the crowds.
Street Food Battambang
When it comes to street food in Battambang it truly is one of those places that I adore. This is because rather than there being cordoned off areas, special markets, or zoning, essentially the whole place becomes a street food destination as soon as the sun starts to set. And while most of it is based around the riverside, it is quite literally everywhere, including at the Bat Caves, the Bamboo Railway and even the train station.
And where the sheer variety is not enough, it does not even end there, because most importantly the food is also excellent. Basically they have everything from everywhere in Cambodia done very well, but also a few Battambang specialities that are must try’s when you are in town. And do not fret! We shall cover all of the above in the Battambang street food guide!
Eating at the Riverside and Beyond in Battambang
As previously stated street food in Battambang, much like love is “all around us”. The best place to be though by far and where all the life is down by the riverside, particularly at Khmer New Year. Here vendors start popping out by 3-4 pm, but it is when it gets dark that it gets fun. Then both sides of the river fill up with vendors for the most part doing food, but also clothes retailers, games like shooting toys and even fairground rides.
This makes for a real family atmosphere, but also one for a bit of a party. The Khmer style in general is to come out and drink with food, so fear not if you need some lubrication when you eat, Cambodia Beer, Krud and even Ganzberg are readily available. Oh and there are also rooftop bars, but we will deal with them later.
Away from the river there is still plenty going on. Psar Nat market is a major daytime and early evening food hub with noodles, grilled meats and sweets everywhere. Around the old train station you will find quick local bites for people on the move. Even heading out towards the Bamboo Railway or the road to the Bat Caves you will still find food stalls setting up for sunset crowds. The point is simple, you are never far from something to eat in Battambang.
5 Must Try Battambang Street Foods
Restricting to 5 must try foods in Battambang is no easy task as quite frankly they do everything so bloody well, but hey we are the pros, so you can rely on us!
Bai Sach Chrouk
Probably the most reliable Cambodian dish going. Grilled pork over rice with pickles and sometimes a fried egg. Simple, cheap and everywhere, and in Battambang it is consistently well done.
Pepper Egg
Sounds basic but punches above its weight. Eggs cooked with Kampot pepper giving a sharp, spicy kick. Usually served with sauce and eaten as a quick street snack.
A proper Battambang and wider northwest speciality. A mix of minced meat, herbs and spices wrapped and grilled. Slightly unusual, very local, and one of those dishes you do not forget easily.
Grilled Skewers
Chicken, pork or beef marinated and grilled over charcoal. You will smell these before you see them. Smoky, slightly sweet, and perfect with a cold beer by the river.
Num Pang
Cambodia’s baguette sandwich and still one of the best street food staples in the country. Pork, pate, pickled vegetables and chili sauce stuffed into fresh bread. Fast, messy and everywhere.
The Battambang Nightlife Scene
When it comes to the nightlife of Battambang it is essentially all about drinking Cambodian beers with street food and by the river. If though you need something more structured then there are a handful of hostel bars and small rooftop spots, but nothing on the scale of bigger cities. The real scene is informal, social and spread across a few key hangouts rather than one defined district.
THE PLACE Hostel & Rooftop Bar
Street 3, Battambang
Main backpacker hub in the city. Rooftop area is used for sunset beers, social atmosphere, and easy meeting point for travellers.
Pomme Hostel, Bar & Restaurant
Street 2.5, Battambang
One of the most social places in town. Cheap drinks, casual food, and a steady flow of backpackers.
Social Restaurant & Rooftop Bar
Street 207, Battambang
Modern but still relaxed. Rooftop section for drinks and food, popular for sunset rather than late night partying.
Classy Sky Bar & Restaurant
Street 207, Battambang
Small hotel rooftop bar with decent views. Quiet, simple, and more about drinks than nightlife energy.
Riverside Street Food Area
Sangker River, Battambang
This is where most of the actual “nightlife” happens. Food stalls, beer tables, families, and locals all mixing together in one long riverside strip.
Overall
Battambang is great and honestly we cannot understand why so many people overlook it, although this means from a tourism point of view it is also not overrun. And were that not enough you can even come here by train, which is a whole other article.
Therefore whether you join us on a tour, or come at your own free will, we truly recommend Battambang and indeed its street food. The end!
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