While tea might be the first thing that comes to people’s minds when they think of Darjeeling, there is actually a lot more going on here, such as the UNESCO site and ride that is the Darjeeling Toy Railway.
Yet while this might sound like something that is just quaint and touristy, the railway which dates back to the 1880s is not only still very much functional, but serves a purpose.
With all of this in mind, and the fact we were in Darjeeling AND the fact we love trains YPT decided to check it out and write a guide. So, where does the Darjeeling Toy Railway fit into the pantheon of great train journeys?
The Darjeeling Toy Railway Story
The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway was the British Raj’s answer to we want our hill station and we want it now. The colonial overlords loved Darjeeling’s cool climate but didn’t love getting there in ox carts. So in 1879 they decided to build a railway, and by 1881 they had a narrow-gauge line snaking all the way from the sweaty plains of Siliguri to the misty peaks of Darjeeling.
Of course this was no easy feat. The terrain is insane. You’re talking vertical climbs, sheer drops, and corners so tight a tuk-tuk would think twice. The big problem was how to gain 2000 metres of elevation without inventing teleportation. And here’s where it gets weird. According to legend, the loop system that makes the whole thing work wasn’t even the idea of some engineer. Nope, it was the engineer’s wife who cracked it. She was waltzing with him one night, noticed their circular footwork, and basically said why don’t you just make the train dance like this. So yes, the Darjeeling Toy Train is powered by ballroom logic and British desperation.
The result was a line with six reverses, three loops, and an almost comedic amount of bends. The most iconic of these is the Batasia Loop where the train quite literally does a spin so tourists can take photos of the mountains. Somehow the thing still works. UNESCO gave it the heritage nod in 1999 and Bollywood keeps coming back for misty dance scenes. And yeah, while it’s old, it’s not a museum piece. Locals use it. Kids wave at it. And train nerds treat it like the second coming of Christ (or Buddha?) on wheels.
It’s mad, it’s colonial, and it’s still running. It will though almost definitely be late.
The Three Darjeeling Toy Railways and Timetable
There are basically three versions of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway experience. You’ve got the full crawl up the mountains, the slide back down, and the short little circle they let tourists do when they’re pressed for time.
- New Jalpaiguri (নিউ জলপাইগুড়ি) to Darjeeling (দার্জিলিং) – Full Ride (Train 52541)
This is the big one. A seven-hour, 88 km diesel-powered crawl from the heat of the plains to the clouds of Darjeeling. The ride begins at 08:30 from NJP and arrives in Darjeeling at 15:35. It’s not for the faint of bladder but it is the real deal. First Class will cost you about $25, while Second Class wooden benches go for around $10 if you hate your back.
Stops on the way:
– New Jalpaiguri (নিউ জলপাইগুড়ি)
– Siliguri Junction (শিলিগুড়ি জংশন)
– Sukna (সুকনা)
– Rangtong (রাংটং)
– Tindharia (টিনঢাড়িয়া)
– Gayabari (গয়াবাড়ি)
– Mahanadi (মহানদী)
– Kurseong (কুরসেওং)
– Tung (টুঙ)
– Sonada (সোনাদা)
– Ghum (ঘুম)
– Batasia Loop (বাতাসিয়া লুপ)
– Darjeeling (দার্জিলিং)
Expect epic scenery, constant honking, monkeys on tracks, and a lot of people waving. - Darjeeling (দার্জিলিং) to NJP (নিউ জলপাইগুড়ি) – The Descent (Train 52540)
Leaves Darjeeling at 09:00 and pulls into NJP around 15:10. Slightly quicker downhill but still bumpy as hell. Same stations in reverse. Not really any different from the climb other than you’re rolling with gravity and probably a bit more tired. - The Joy Ride – Darjeeling (দার্জিলিং) to Ghum (ঘুম) and Back
This is what 90 percent of tourists do. It’s short, sweet, smoky and scenic. A 14 km round-trip from Darjeeling to Ghum, with two proper stops:
– Batasia Loop (বাতাসিয়া লুপ) (10 minutes): Spiral loop with views of Kanchenjunga and war memorial
– Ghum Station (ঘুম) (30 minutes): The highest station in India, with the small but decent Railway Museum
The trains are either steam or diesel. Steam is more iconic but sells out quickly. Fares are about $18 for steam, $12 for diesel. There’s also the Vista Dome coach if you want panoramic glass and tourist prices. Rides run throughout the day from roughly 09:25 until 17:30.
Pro tip: book early if you want steam. Otherwise prepare for diesel disappointment.
The Rolling Stock
This is where the railway nerds start frothing at the mouth. The big stars are the B-Class steam locomotives which were built between 1889 and 1927. These are not replicas. They are the real deal and they are still puffing away like asthmatic dragons. They only run on the short Joy Ride stretch now but when you see one round a bend with the whistle screaming it’s pure train porn.
The diesel locomotives do the long haul to NJP. They’re not sexy but they work. The coaches are mostly wooden-slatted things that feel like 1950s time capsules. First Class has cushions (to a degree). Vista Dome has big glass windows. But don’t expect comfort. No AC. No toilets. Just fans that sometimes work and windows that thankfully can be opened, in fact it is probably harder to close them.
How is it riding the Darjeeling Toy Railway
OK so in case it is not yet abundantly clear I and therefore YPT by default have a slight penchant for train travel. This means that as people that do seven days on the Trans-Siberian Railway our views might be skewed. With this in mind we will try and be as neutral as possible.
So the trains are old, they are steam so shoot out soot and often times crowded. If you are traveling up or down to or from Siliguri with bags this can mean not all that much space. The trains also break down, are oft times late and have to do loops because of the terrain.
Now with the shit out of the way let’s look at the positives. You are quite literally on one of the highest elevation railways in the world. With the thin gauge trains quite literally going through the towns and past shops, but in a way even cooler than in Cambodia.
You are also doing a freaking steam engine, at least on the Darjeeling Joy Ride. On said ride you also stop at both the Gurkha Museum and the Railway Museum. And when you do stop there’s food and drinks being sold at the side of the road.
It should also be noted that Darjeeling is not India or Bangladesh so while the stops are much less active there is also a calmness to them, which when combined with the stunning scenery makes it quite the journey.
Is the Darjeeling Toy Railway an epic train journey that all train geeks should do? Yes. Yes it is. Can you do it with YPT? Yes on our Sikkim Tour.
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